The values of Galot and persimmon dyeing achieves new recognition, and their functions revaluate today. Therefore this research has been conducted a series of 4 studies on persimmon juice dyed fabric and its clothing(Galot) for investigating their ...
The values of Galot and persimmon dyeing achieves new recognition, and their functions revaluate today. Therefore this research has been conducted a series of 4 studies on persimmon juice dyed fabric and its clothing(Galot) for investigating their excellences.
In the first study, The persimmon dyed plain samples were produced by dip-dyeing with mixture of unripe persimmon juice and water with ratio of 4:1 and solarizing it repeatedly over seven times, a process which began in August 2011. In this study, printing was introduced to the common dip-dyeing method of persimmon juice dyeing to, instead of producing a plain textile, develop three differently colored persimmon juice dyed fabrics with printings of ‘jorangmal’ patterns(a national monument). On these specimens, the pattern was printed with a dye produced by mixing pigment with binder, and then the fabric was finished after several times of washing, which was meant to ensure fixation of the printings.
The three fabric samples were compared separately. Following are the results of a comparative study between the persimmon dyed fabric and undyed fabric, both with printings, in terms of its properties, and hand values. Firstly, the air permeability of three samples improved after persimmon dyeing even though their thickness increased. And moisture regain of cotton and rayon fabrics increased as well. Secondly, protectiveness against UV increased in dyed samples, and sweat, sunlight, and compound colorfastness improved in printed dye-fabrics compare to plain dyed ones. Therefore, printing proved to be effective in preventing discoloration. Thirdly, tensile linearity and resilience, bending rigidity, and shearing stiffness increased more in the dyed samples compared to undyed ones. However, compressive linearity and resilience, and shearing recovery decreased in cotton and rayon dyed fabrics. Fourthly, the result of its hand value showed that Koshi value increased in all samples than undyed ones, whereas Fukurami, Numeri, and Softosa values decreased. Especially, Numeri among all factors decreased most significantly in the samples. Koshi, Numeri, and Fukurami showed similar results for KN-201-MDY (Woman’s winter suit) as well, and Softosa decreased in all samples, reaffirming that persimmon dyeing takes away softness. Incorporating printing in persimmon dyeing process could expect creative outcomes not only in today’s diverse fashion but in areas of arts or crafts as well.
The second research compares the characteristics of persimmon dye-printed fabric with that of undye-printed fabric, in order to study the relationship between persimmon dyeing and textile printing in regard to its impact on the factors determining the textile’s impression on the viewer’s subjective perception such as the surface state, hand value, visual and textural quality.
Considering dye absorptiveness, comfort and usability, 100% cotton and 100% rayon were chosen as sample materials. A total of four samples were made: undyed(S1), dyed cotton(S2) and undyed(S3), dyed rayon(S4) printed fabrics with persimmon juice. Pony patterns with two varying degrees of color were used for the textile design, and as a result the persimmon dye-printed fabric produced had a sum of three color degrees. KES-FB System was used to analyze the surface property and the character of the textile in order to come up with an objective analysis of the textile’s hand value. Next, subjective perception of the textile was quantified using semantic differential method based on a survey of 40 male and female undergraduate and graduate students, where subjects were asked to choose where his or her position lies on a scale (with a stretch from -3 to +3) between two bipolar adjectives, and finally the mean of the data was determined. According to the presence of persimmon dye, the image of the textile differed greatly in terms of clarity and feel despite the fact that the patterns had the same color and shape.
The results of the survey fell within the range between -0.93 and +1.80. All subjects responded that all samples gave a ‘warm’ impression regardless of the presence of the dye, and found all the samples ‘beautiful’ except for S4. Persimmon dyeing made the samples feel warmer, stiffer and more rigid, rougher, less stretchy, and drier. It also made them feel heavier and thicker. The results above showed that objective analysis and subjective perception of the textile largely coincide with each other in regard to the effect of persimmon dyeing on printed textile.
In the third study, persimmon juice dye-printed fabrics with printing were used to create Galot one-piece dress, and then it was used the experimental clothing. The Galot dresses were assessed in comparison to white undyed one-piece dresses of the same design through a wearing test, which was conducted in a climatic chamber with air temperature of 30±1℃, 50±5% R.H, and 0.2m/sec air movement on 4 healthy female subjects in their 20s. The subjects went through a 30-min stable period, a 30-min exercise of walking on a 5° slope treadmill at 70m/min, and a 20-min recovery period, and their physiological reaction and subjective sensation were estimated. The result showed that significant differences were mostly observed from sweating period that occurred during the latter half of the exercise. More specific results are as follows.
Firstly, skin temperature on the thigh and mean skin temperature were significantly higher(p<.05) in rayon dyed sample dress. Secondly, micro-humidity on the back ranked C1(cotton-undyed)> C2(cotton-dyed)> R1(rayon-undyed)> R2(rayon-dyed) with significant difference(p<.05). Namely, both cotton and rayon persimmon juice dyed sample dresses produced lower micro-humidity than their counterparts, and as for cotton the difference occurred over the entire course of tests, whereas for rayon it occurred after the middle of the exercise period. Thirdly, the sweating rate on the back decreased in both cotton and rayon with persimmon juice dye, but no significant difference was observed. Fourthly, participants’ evaluation of subjective sensation revealed significantly high scores on thermal sensation and comfort sensation for R2(p<.05), indicating that the participants felt hot and uncomfortable.
As described above, the analysis of physiological responses and subjective sensation of undyed and dyed clothing shows the effect of persimmon juice dyeing. The cause of the higher skin temperature in Galot may be the insulating property of persimmon juice dyeing. Meanwhile, it seems persimmon juice dye also increases air permeability, moisture regain and permeability facilitating body heat ventilation, as micro-humidity and sweat rate were lowered. However, this was not shown clearly in participants’ subjective responses on wetness and comfort.
In the fourth study, the teaching-learning materials and the plans using persimmon juice dyeing, which is one of the traditional natural dyeing methods of Korea, were developed for the purpose of inspiring further awareness of our traditional clothing life-culture. A questionnaire was designed to make a survey on the educational effect, and t-test and Kruscal-Wallis test were conducted to test the significant differences between pre- and post-lessons. A correlation analysis between culture awareness and its education awareness was also done. These prototypes were applied to high school Technology·Home Economics classes under the theme, ‘Making living goods with persimmon juice dyed fabrics’. Examining the changes in students’ awareness of traditional images, and changes in their interest and attitude towards learning in those classes led to the following results.
Firstly, as a result of applying LT cooperative studying and learning in order for an understanding of the formation of clothing life-culture and the process of persimmon juice dyeing, many original handicrafts with modern sense were created. Secondly, a comparative analysis between pre- and post-lessons on the change in students’ degree of awareness of traditional clothing life-culture and its education showed that students’ awareness had risen after the class; the data was collected from three separate sample groups which had been clustered according to their initial degree of awareness, i.e. high, middle, and low, and the group that scored the lowest before the class showed the greatest improvement. Thirdly, feedback surveys on ‘Making living goods with persimmon juice dyed fabrics’ classes returned with scores greater than ‘moderate’, thus revealing that the students’ concern and interest towards traditional clothing life-culture has been enhanced through the class experience. Their attitude had also become more positive. Fourth, since learners with more awareness of the traditional clothing life-culture also showed more awareness of the need for an education designed to promote the culture, a positive correlation between the two had been found.
As explained above, the teaching-learning materials and the lesson plans that had been developed for this study has caused a deeper understanding of the value and significance of the traditional natural dyeing and clothing life-culture, and has therefore brought about an educational effect that powers idea creation.
In total, the series of studies over the 4 phases scientifically proved the environmental and human friendliness of Galot which is a functional clothing taking advantage of the benefits of Korean traditional persimmon juice dyeing, and the results led to the establishment of foundation and data for promoting Galot both domestically and abroad. Moreover, the research materials and achievements of this study brought positive effects to secondary school traditional clothing life-culture education.